Logitech g603 lightspeed review: Logitech G603 LIGHTSPEED Review — RTINGS.com

Choosing a wireless mouse for PC gaming has always been a tough choice. Either you get one that performs as well as a wired mouse, with accurate tracking and ultra-low latency and deal with frequent charging, or you get a “regular” wireless desktop mouse that lasts for months but doesn’t have the performance PC gamers crave. With the G603, you can finally have your cake and eat it too.

Review Logitech G603 Wireless

Once you read the review of the Logitech G603, any gamer will understand that this mouse is perfect for him. With high speed and amazing accuracy, the device strikes minds and hearts. It is comfortable, ergonomic, beautiful and meets all modern gaming standards.

Specifications

A computer mouse is a wireless device that connects via USB to a computer or laptop. Powered by purchased batteries, designed for approximately 500 hours or more of play. When using the low performance mode, this figure increases to 18 months.

The latest generation HERO sensor is built into the device to monitor incoming signals. Using laser technology, it instantly responds to all user actions even without a tight bond to the surface.

The mouse itself has 6 buttons that carry important functionality. In addition to the standard left and right keys, as well as the wheel, there are side buttons and a small sensitive area below the wheel. Their functions can be replaced using a special driver from the company.

Complete set

The manipulator itself is hidden in a not too big gray cardboard box. The cover has an image of a mouse. Its name is written in greyish-blue iridescent letters. The reverse side contains all the necessary information, advertising text and brief technical characteristics of the device.

G603 is firmly attached to a plastic base containing a special recess. Such packaging prevents the appearance of a mouse during transportation or storage. The kit includes the mechanism itself, a USB receiver, a special wire for it and two bonus batteries.

Also in the box are hidden all the necessary documents for proper and long-term operation.

Design version

The manipulator has a drop-shaped smooth shape. The case has a black color, while the mechanical keys are highlighted with gray shades. Some buttons, like the side buttons, remain black and glossy. The upper part features the company’s logo, which has a metallic tint.

Wireless is credited as the first mouse to feature the innovative HERO sensor. According to the developer, he embodies all the best features of laser manipulators, becoming a high-precision and fast device that has no analogues.

Operation

When operating the mouse, it is better to install a special driver downloaded from the official website of the developer. It opens up certain features that make using the mouse easier and more convenient.

Once connected, you must select a power plan. If you need the mouse for normal work, switch it to economy mode. Then the accuracy and response speed will decrease slightly, but the power consumption plan will decrease. On the contrary, when entering a dynamic shooter, return the indicators back.

It can be used on any surface, including uneven ones. But for a better response, you need to purchase a special mat.

Conclusion

The G603 Wireless Mouse is perfect for gamers who value their comfort while playing their favorite game. You can get rid of the constant restrictions in the wires, lean back in your chair and enjoy the process. The manipulator will not let you down even in the most difficult situation, remaining your friend and assistant.

Pros:

• Precision.
• Speed.
• The quality of the materials used.
• Low performance mode.
• Durability.
• Quality wireless communication.

Cons:

• High cost.
• Fairly simple design.
• Quite a voracious battery.

Where to buy:

You can buy Logitech G603 in our store at a fairly attractive price.

Ultimate mouse selection guide — Hardware for DTF

Collecting gaming mice and other peripherals is my passion and hobby, at the moment I have about 40 mice in my collection (although I haven’t counted for a long time, maybe more). Therefore, I hope I have enough experience to answer many questions about mouse selection in this article.

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A small part of the collection before moving it from the table to the pantry (carpets are my second passion)

Disclaimer

In this article, I will focus on the fact that you pick up a mouse for shooters and play not for beer, but are aimed at the result of . In other situations, the choice of mouse is not so important or not important at all.

When referring to specific mice, I will avoid mentioning products of local brands, such as Zet, Hator, Bloody, etc. For the most part, these are budget solutions that conflict with the first item on this list.

Unfortunately, most of the good mice cannot be bought in the nearest electronics store, here you have to prepare for purchases in foreign stores, which I will talk about towards the end.

The author is a fan of Kovaak’s Aim Trainer, so you can add me on Steam, let’s compare (code 147269971).

Well, according to the classics, this is the personal opinion of the author, which may not coincide with yours, I will be glad to talk with you in the comments.

Habitual situation on my desk (yes, I alternate them from time to time)

Shape and size (Shape is King)

The most subjective, but also the most important parameter in any mouse. Everyone’s hands are different, the grip style is also different, and because of this, advice on choosing is akin to advice on buying shoes, too individual.

Whether the mouse is perfect in all respects, but if it is inconvenient for you, then you can forget about performance. Of course, a person can adapt. And it seems to me that you could have had such an experience when you purchased a mouse, at first it was uncomfortable for you, but then you picked up a grip on it and got used to it.

If you had chosen correctly, then there would have been no torment with adaptation, and your performance would have been noticeably higher. Only reviewers or crazy collectors can afford to find their ideal shape through multiple tests. But in this block I will try to explain the theory of shapes and sizes.

There are basic options for mouse grips:

• Palmar aka basic, used by most people, this is the most natural option. In the hardcore community, it is considered rather weak, since vertical movements require the work of the whole hand (and this is slow). Not exactly suitable for fast shooters, but still applicable to shooters with more horizontality, such as CS:GO\Valorant;
• Claw . An intermediate option between the palmar and finger. The problem of verticality is solved by bending the fingers on the main buttons, thanks to which the mouse can be moved with your fingers vertically.
• Finger. The mouse is held entirely by the fingers and most of the time it does not have contact with the palm of the hand. It has room for maneuvers, most of the time only fingers and a hand work, due to which a high reaction rate is achieved. The largest ceiling on the growth of personal skill can be obtained with this grip.
• Hybrids . They are a symbiosis of two of the main grips above. Or various «exotics» that are difficult to define in the main categories. Some players hold their mice really strangely, but it’s so comfortable for them.

Once you have decided which grip to use, we can move on to mouse shapes. Different shapes are better suited for certain grips.

The simplest and most basic mouse division: symmetry and ergonomics.

• Symmetrical mouse, as the name implies, is symmetrical (suddenly). It might have side buttons on both sides, then this mouse will fit those weird guys who hold the mouse in their left hand too. But this is rare. In most cases, the side buttons are located only on the left and are designed exclusively for the right hand (left-handers also often hold the mouse in their right hand). Symmetry is good because it is the most versatile and safest choice. Good for a claw grip and most suitable for a finger grip.
• Ergonomic mouse (or asymmetric) has a more anatomical shape and tends to repeat the curves of the hand. Most often, this is a noticeable rise in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe index finger and a bevel to the right side. Also, what a hand looks like if you fold it like a boat and put it on the table with your palm down. There are many variations, from radical forms to very subtle ones. The most suitable grip is palmar and its hybrids.

But this classification is rather rough, so I propose to move on to more specific examples. The simplest and most obvious example is Zowie mice.

Their three main lines of mice contain basic shapes that are often used by other manufacturers. By looking at any other mouse you will be able to recognize these shapes.

One of the most popular ergonomic shapes

The EC series uniform is a classic of the Counter Strike pro scene. Mostly due to the fact that professional players of that time were moving from dinosaurs such as Microsoft IntelliMouse 3. 0 and this form is its further development. Low sens, palm grip and horizontal gameplay are everything for this form.

The most popular symmetrical shape, all the attention to the hump in the center

FK form can now be seen in a huge number of mice, the most important element here is the hump located in the center. It can even be called the basic form, as many manufacturers have realized that it is quite versatile. You can see it from Logitech G Pro to Finalmouse Ultralight2.

Here the hump is already shifted back

The shape of the ZA series is already distinguished by the hump set back. Not the most popular form in the mass market, as it is more narrowly focused. Best suited for a claw grip or its hybrids. The brightest representatives of this form are Endgame Gear XM1\RGB\r and Roccat Burst Pro.

So, we are almost done with this block , it remains only to talk about the size of both the mouse and your hand. The simplest rule for palm grip is if your hand is big then you need a big mouse. With a finger, the size depends more on the width of the hand and the mouse can be taken smaller.

Let’s start with the basics, how to measure your hand correctly. We measure from the tip of the middle finger to the end of the palm. The width is measured from the widest part of the thumb to the end of the palm.

Instead of describing entire tables by the size of mice, we can use an excellent cheat sheet from the mouse reviewer — Zy.

We enter our data, select the severity of the search, the type of grip and the preferred form

Click Search and get a list of mice that are more likely to fit you in size. Not sure if you have a “chicken paw” grip, but you will already have a list from which to build.

And we are finally done with this important issue.

Sensor

Not the most important part, simply because in 99% of cases modern mice of famous brands put quite good sensors, but I put this item second, because it seems that people have strange ideas about this.

If we roll back to the old days, when we still argued which sensor is better: optical or laser, when the mouse went into a breakdown at the slightest sneeze, and we were young and played without a carpet on the table (someone still), then the sensor issue was really important.

But technological progress does not stand still, and at the time of 2021, talking about sensors is more like an argument between two wine sommeliers about sourness in the aftertaste. Most people will not notice the difference between the 3370 and 3389 sensors. Therefore, if you are not a “cyber cutlet”, then you should not bother yourself with this. For everyone else who is interested, I will continue useful information.

PixArt Imaging has long been a monopoly on the sensor market, the vast majority of all sensors of its hands or mouse manufacturers did something based on their developments.

Basic sensor parameters: IPS, CPI, Acceleration and LOD. There are other minor features, but they can be neglected.

• IPS (inches per second) is the linear speed in inches per second at which the sensor is able to read the surface. For top sensors, this parameter is 400-650. A speed of 1 meter per second would equal 39.41 IPS. That is 400 IPS = 10.1 m/s. The maximum speed with which a person can move the mouse does not exceed 5-6 m / s (200-240IPS). If you can quickly, then plz skin the video, it will be a world record!
• Acceleration (acceleration) — the maximum acceleration that the sensor can withstand before losing surface tracking, measured in g (gravitational acceleration). 1g = ~9.8m/s/s (meters per second every second). Modern sensors have this indicator equal to 40-50g. This is a lot. Even if we imagine the fastest mouse flick from one end of the carpet to the other at a speed of 5 m / s, which will take 100ms, then the acceleration in this case will be slightly more than 5g. This is only one tenth of the capabilities of the sensor.
• CPI (aka DPI, but CPI is more correct) — sensor resolution, how many dots per inch the sensor registers. The higher the value is set, the more «sensitive» to mouse movements. Modern sensors are gone, 16000-19000 or even 20000 CPI. It doesn’t make any practical sense, and more often than not, crazy marketers put high CPI in promotional materials as a huge advantage. But you will never use even half of these values. A reasonable ceiling for use in modern 1600-3200 sensors. Fun fact , the current standard of 400-800 dpi is a little outdated, try 1200-1600 (with a corresponding decrease in sensitivity in the game), on modern engines and monitors this will give a decrease in latency (yes, the difference is in milliseconds, but if you are a cyber cutlet, then 2ms gain is good). More in this video.
• LOD (lift off distance) — lift off height at which the sensor stops tracking the surface. The lower, the better. 1-2mm is the norm. Especially if you are a fan of low sensitivity and often have to move the mouse. It should be noted here that the manufacturer does not always allow this value to be changed, even if the sensor allows this according to its specifications. If the height is allowed to change, then usually it is in two options. Example: 1 and 2mm for 3370, 2 and 3mm for 3389.

List of sensors you won’t have any problems with:

• Razer Focus+ \ CPI 20000 \ IPS 650 \ Acc 50g (aka 3399, exclusive to Razer)
• PMW 3370 \ CPI 19000 \ IPS 400 \ Acc 50g (improved and power efficient version of 3389, slightly less latency at 850+ dpi)
• PAW 3338 \ CPI 16000 \ IPS 400 \ Acc 40g (Option 3335 from Ajazz)
• PMW 3389 \ CPI 16000 \ IPS 400 \ Acc 50g (most of the sensors in the list are based on it)
• PMW 3390 \ CPI 16000 \ IPS 450 \ Acc 50g (aka Razer 5G Laser)
• TrueMove Air \ CPI 16000 \ IPS 400 \ Acc 40g (Option 3335 for Steelseries)
• PAW 3369 \ CPI 16000 \ IPS 400 \ Acc 40g (3335 for Razer)
• PAW 3335 \ CPI 16000 \ IPS 400 \ Acc 40g (primarily designed for wireless mice due to its power efficiency)
• Logitech Hero 16k \ CPI 16000 \ IPS 400 \ Acc 40g
• Logitech Hero\CPI 12000\IPS 400\Ac 40g
• Owl-Eye 16k \ CPI 16000 \ IPS 400 \ Acc 50g (variant 3389 in all modern Roccats)
• And other names, manufacturers often call the sensor something in their own way, but in reality it is some familiar 3389, here you already have to google it. But as I wrote above — it doesn’t really matter if you don’t buy a mouse for three pennies from Ali.

List of sensors that you should not take:

• PMW 3360 \ 3366 \ TrueMove 3 (still often used, but outdated, there are no problems with it, but there are already better options)
• Mercury (found in Logitech budget mice, despite the marketing nonsense, it is not gaming, it can disrupt)

PMW 3325

• 0042
• PMW 3310 \ 3320 \ 3330 (Hardly found for sale, very old Paleolithic sensors)

I hope now there will be fewer questions about sensors and comparing them by maximum DPI.

Buttons and clicks

The next most common misconception is the resource of button clicks. Manufacturers often write in the description — 50 million clicks! And the other writes 80 million clicks! Given the specifics of the market, the user undoubtedly wants to buy a mouse and, if they’re lucky, pass it on to their grandchildren.

But the question here is more complicated than it seems, and the claimed resource is often a fiction. Of course, let’s start with the basics, which «buttons» (hereinafter switches) exist and how they work.

At the moment there are two types of switches — «normal» and optical.

Kailh GM 8.0 is one of the best switches on the market right now

So, an ordinary switch inside has a fairly simple structure. When pressed, the small plate inside bends and closes the circuit, which gives a signal to press. Pretty simple, but sometimes there are problems and I think some have come across this — a double click (in super neglected situations and even triple).

This happens again because of this plate, which is rather thin and has already got tired of your sweaty skating rink (or was obviously defective). When pressed, the plate bends and closes the circuit, and in the case of double pressing, it gives vibrations at which the circuit begins to close and open in waves without your participation. This can happen even before the resource declared by the manufacturer of 80 million clicks.

The thing is that this resource is declared by the switch manufacturer as MTBF, it was he who tested his product in ideal conditions, figured the hell out, calculated the probabilities and deduced such an average.

To deal with double clicks, mouse developers have come up with a tool in the mouse firmware — debounce time (or delay). Essentially a filter that tells the mouse not to register additional clicks for a certain period of time. Measured in milliseconds.

This parameter can be different in different mice, it all depends on how much the manufacturer believes in the switches he sets. For example, there is no such parameter in top-end Logitech mice, and in some cheap mouse, the manufacturer can even set a delay of 16ms (it may not seem like much, but in comparison you can feel it). It is good practice to let the user set this parameter on their own. For example, we set the minimum, if double clicks have begun, then we increase until they disappear.

But even if there is no such setting, then up to 5ms debounce time can be considered normal. Alas, you will not find this in the official characteristics of mice, only from reviews.

There are already more manufacturers and options for switches than sensors, in addition to the resource, they also differ in tactility, pressing force, response speed (almost like mechanical switches for keyboards), but mouse manufacturers rarely focus on this and use the most popular options from Omron 20M and 50M.

In this article, I will not describe their variations and the difference between Chinese and Japanese Omron switches, but just know that there is a difference. Also, the design of the button in the mouse also affects the sensation of pressing, so the same switch in different mice will feel differently.

If you are good with a soldering iron, then you can buy most of the switches on Ali and replace them yourself. There is also a pair of mice from Asus ROG with the ability to hotswap switches without soldering.

My top switches

• Kailh GM 8.0 — pressing force 65g, resource 80m, very tactile click. A relatively new model, found in commercial mice such as the Endgame Gear XM1r and Xtrfy MZ1.
• Kailh GM 4.0 — pressing force 70g, resource 50m, heavy click. The most popular switches that changed in double-click G Pro Wireless, before the advent of GM 8.0. I don’t remember seeing it in serial mice, except perhaps in custom versions from Piranha Mouse Mods.
• TTC Gold — pressing force 60g, resource 20\40\80m in different versions. Most often seen in mice from G-Wolves. High tactility, but with a light touch, great for quick clicks.
• Huano Blue Shell White Dot — pressing force 70g, resource 20m. A rather tight click with good feedback, most often found in mice from Chinese manufacturers.

Let’s skip talking about switches in the side buttons and wheels, most often there are switches for change with a rather low resource of 5-10m.

Optical switch from Razer, the new mice come with second revision switches, in which they tried to improve the feel of the click

Now quite a bit about optical switches . The principle of their operation is different, when pressed, a partition opens, which closes the beam, while the beam hits the photocell, which registers the pressing. The beauty of optical switches is that double-pressing them is structurally excluded, and their resource is noticeably higher. If you have a desire to pass on your gaming mouse to your grandchildren, then optical switches are your option.

True optical switches are quite rare. Only Razer and Roccat use them everywhere. Optical options have one subjective minus — the feeling of pressing, it is not as tactile as on ordinary switches, it may seem empty to someone. And yes, optical switches do not have debounce time, so there is practically no delay from the switch.

Approximate illustration of the difference between optics and a conventional switch

Mouse weight

If there is no goal to pump up a hand, then the less, the better. The only contraindication to light mice is hand tremor. By light mice, I mean less than 70 grams.

Heaviness is good, heaviness is reliable… but it’s better to take the mouse lighter

Boris Razor, Living Soviet coat of arms

Plastic and coating

Thankfully, the days of widespread use of soft-touch plastic have passed, and finally it has dawned on many that this is not the best choice for a mouse. In modern samples, the coating can be divided into three types — gloss, PBT / ABS plastic and matte coating.

Almost all problems are solved by add. overlays, or as they say in our villages — grips, if a particular coating did not work for you. But here are some simple rules:

Those same grips on awesome white gloss

• Never take gloss if your hands sweat a lot. Yes, the mouse looks chic, but in very sweaty hands, the gloss turns into soap. Well, gloss is just a magnet for dirt, if you don’t have the habit of wiping your mouse, then prepare a room for dirt.
• If you have very dry hands, the matte finish can also slip.
• The golden mean is a simple rough PBT plastic (as on HyperX Pulsfire Haste)
• Sometimes in the design of mice you can find side elastic bands already built in, as an element of the body. Get ready for them to quickly wear off and start to peel off (especially on Steelseries).

Colander Mouse, pros and cons

Hole mice are contraindicated if you have signs of trypophobia. Otherwise, this should be treated only as a design element. There are already enough mice without holes, but also quite light. Do not worry about the fact that a mouse with holes is more afraid of moisture or less durable.

First of all, the board is often isolated from moisture in such mice, secondly, I don’t think that streams flow from your hands, and thirdly, most manufacturers have learned how to make such mice quite durable.

And yes, a mouse with holes doesn’t get so dirty that you have to open it up to clean the inside. I don’t have long haired pets though, so it’s an open question 🙂

It can be beautiful

Wired or wireless?

Now we can say with confidence that any modern wireless mouse operating on 2.4 Hz radio works as quickly and responsively as a wired one. No matter how beautiful words manufacturers call their wireless technologies, from the Chinese Delux M800 to the Logitech G Pro Superlight, they work great and are indistinguishable from their wired counterparts.

The only difference is the price, the wireless ones are obviously more expensive. If your budget allows, then a wireless mouse is a good choice. But now everything is not so bad with wired ones either, if the manufacturer has not stinted on a normal light “paracord-like” cable, then it will also practically not be felt. For example, with all the variety of wireless mice, my main one is the wired Roccat Burst Pro, simply because the shape fits perfectly.

In the most extreme cases, you can purchase a custom cable from Ali or other sites and replace it yourself, it’s quite simple.

The poor Xtrfy M42 drain cable has been replaced with a lighter and softer cable from Ali

Glides

They are also mouse legs, in most cases made of Teflon (Polytetrafluoroethylene). White legs made of 100% pure material are now in vogue, in the vast majority of gaming mice you will see just such. Here their thickness is important and whether the edges are rounded, otherwise there will be discomfort on soft carpets when gliding, as if the mouse clings to the carpet.

In any case, this is not something super important, the glides wear out over time and this is a consumable, you can fix it with third-party purchased gliders — Corepad, Esp. Tiger or FeetGlide (by the way, a new company from Ukraine, makes excellent glide).

FeetGlide Glides on G Pro Wireless

No software needed

Personally, I appreciate if the manufacturer does not force me to install their own piece of Hindu code and allows everything to be configured without it. At worst, it’s good if the mouse has internal memory, then it will be possible to set it up once and not return to the software again.

Xtrfy ZM1, you can even configure LOD without software

Xtrfy has advanced the most in this, everything you need can be configured through the toggle switch on the bottom and button combinations. Also, the guys aimed at cyber-cutlets are not far behind — Vaxee, Zowie.

My personal mouse top (Summer 2021)

“Finally!” says someone who has scrolled looking for easy answers.

Top without seats, I’ll just list the worthy mice that I personally liked and can be considered for purchase:

• Roccat Burst Pro
• HyperX Pulsefire Haste
• Endgame Gear XM1r
• Delux M800 (Glides will have to be replaced)
• Xtrfy M42
• Zygen NP-01 and 01S
• Logitech G Pro X Superlight
• Razer Viper mini (with Alik)

Useful links

Maxgaming store — here I buy all sorts of exotic things that are not sold in local retailers.